Pink Traveler

Pittsburgh: Sightseeing

One of the most beautiful attractions in Pittsburgh isn't even in Pittsburgh, but a short drive a couple hours away — Frank Lloyd Wright's architectural masterpiece, Falling Water. But more on that later. For now, there's plenty to focus on in Pittsburgh proper.

In the city, there are plenty of amazing historical sites, some dating back centuries. One attraction, which has only been open a mere 130 or so years is the Duquesne Incline, which people still use to this day as a means of transportation up and down Pittsburgh's Mount Washington. It's like the beginning of a rollercoaster ride, without the fall that follows (unless something goes horribly, horribly wrong). What's really cool about the incline is that it provides an amazing view of the city and the three rivers that surround it.

 

Museum lovers will find plenty to do in Pittsburgh, too. There's the Carnegie Museum of Art & Natural History, which share a common space, would take days to do justice, so plan accordingly. If you're short on time, then we say head straight for the Andy Warhol Museum. Filled with his most famous works and plenty of rare pieces, including videos, this is a must-stop for any fan of pop culture. We could've spent weeks just watching the video replays of his celebrity-studded MTV show or some of the bizarre films he made himself. What we're most excited about, however, is to return once the museum completes the archiving of his time capsules. From fan letters to take-out menus, each box contains a treasure trove of what life was like for the artist, and the world, at almost any given year of his life.

 

While you're in the mood for something a little out of the ordinary, head over to the nearby Mattress Factory, a contemporary art museum with full-room installations by artists in residence. Our favorite, the mind-numbing Repetitive Vision by Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama, whose contant vision of polka dots everywhere led her to commit herself to a mental institution. After a few minutes in the mirrored room filled with naked Japanese mannequins, we were more than happy to join her.

If nature's more your thing, head to the Phipps Conservatory and surround yourself with natural beauty in year-round climate-controlled spaces. The butterfly room is a spectacular followup to an amazing display of beautiful and rare orchids.

But if you really, really want to get in touch with nature, book a Zip Car and head to Falling Water, celebrating 75 years in 2011. This once-private home is now open for daily tours (make sure to book in advance). It's an extraordinary look at the Frank Lloyd Wright genius, and the surrounding property in the Bear Woods Nature Reserve is so peaceful and serene to explore that you'll want to experience it as long as possible. It's anywhere from a 90-minute to 2-hour drive, so plan a whole day for this. And nearby Kentuck Knob, one of Wright's equally great designs, is just a short fifteen minute drive from Falling Water.

 

www.warhol.org

www.duquesneincline.org

www.mattress.org

www.fallingwater.org

www.kentuckknob.com

Photos by Rod Orta

Pittsburgh: Gay Scene

Bet you really want to know what happened with all these porn stars in one place? Or how we ended up waiting in line for the bathroom while Bruce Villanch lounged on the bed talking on his mobile phone?

That's just how our weekend started – at a private party overlooking the city with porn stars everywhere, music thumping, and all the hot dogs we could eat (in more ways than one).

Because we were being taken with other gay journalists from party to party, we didn't spend a whole lot of time at gay bars, but we enjoyed the brief time we spent at each. Rather than recommend one over another, however, we're simply going to give you an overview because we didn't spend enough quality time at any to give a true assessment.

There are some fun bars on Liberty Avenue, made famous by the U.S. version of Queer As Folk, even though the TV series wasn't even shot in Pittsburgh. Then there are clusters of clubs in several other sections of the city. For a complete list, click here.

Otherwise, we found Pittsburgh to be like most cities in the northeast. Very diverse and accepting of a variety of cultures. Even away from the main "gay" sections, we never felt out of place or subject to harassment. And when you can mug down with another guy on vacation on a street corner, doesn't that make a vacation so much more fun? (Well, not if you already know the man, but still.)

Pittsburgh: Omni William Penn

How do you spend 6  hours in a hotel room before discovering that there's not only an extra closet that you hadn't seen, but also a whole extra bathroom? When you're in one of the spacious rooms at the 95-year-old Omni William Penn, that's how. In our defense, we were really tired when we checked in at our host hotel for the Gay Pride festivities in Pittsburgh. But damn, missing a major amenity like an extra bathroom is rather embarrassing.

It's ok. We're over it now, thanks mostly to what a great experience we had at this hotel. Amazingly comfortable beds made us never want to leave, but there were so many things to do that we had no choice but set a wakeup call and seize the day. Centrally located in the downtown business district, many attractions are walkable or a short cab ride away.

But not before choosing which restroom we wanted to get ready in.

www.omnihotels.com

Photo copyright Omni Hotels

Pittsburgh: Eats

Every great city has its signature dish. Philadelphia has its cheesesteak. Boston, clam chowder. And though it may not be official, for us there's one thing you have to order in Pittsburgh: A Primanti Bros. Sandwich.

Originally designed for truck drivers to truly be able to have a meal in a sandwich, this behemoth comes with your choice of meat and other ingredients, but the secret to its deliciousness is what comes next. Coleslaw. AND French Fries. Right on the sandwich. For a true taste of Pittsburgh, we took the server's recommendation and order the "Cap and Egg," which is spicy capicola and a hard-fried egg. Sounds weird, but it's amazing. All for less than $7. Big enough to share, but even the skinniest gays at our table worked their way through a whole one.

 

Something that's probably not a Pittsburgh staple (but should be) is a little discovery we made thanks to Guy Fieri (http://www.foodnetwork.com/diners-drive-ins-and-dives/index.html) and his Diners, Drive-ins and Dives on Food Network. We always look up to see if he's covered anything in a city we're about to travel to, and his recommendations never disappoint.

Crystal Restaurant is a dark little bar with a secret. In the back are a few tiny tables where some of the best Lebanese food we've ever tasted is served to a devoted fan base, mostly comprised of neighborhood businesspeople. Our favorite? The Lamb Sandwich (pictured, right). A warm, toasty pita is stuffed with tender lamb, grilled green peppers and onions, and provolone cheese. Make sure to order extra yogurt sauce. You won't be disappointed. Especially with the $8.00 price tag, which includes salad or fries.

 

For breakfast, you absolutely must try Pamela's, a gay-owned diner with plenty of character—and the best damn pancakes we've ever eaten. Crepe-like discs of sweet, cakey goodness are paper-thin and crispy around the edges. Get them topped with a variety of fruits and syrups, but we say go the purist approach and opt for simple butter and maple syrup. Absolutely, positively divine.

 

However, if you really want to explore some of the city's hidden culinary treasures, book a tour with Burgh Bits and Bites, a foodie tour of some of Pittsburgh's greatest neighborhoods. Come with an empty stomach, an open mind, and a sense of gastronomic adventure. From makers of fine quality Italian meats (right) to crazy cheese ladies and everything in between to eat and drink, this is a fantastic way to eat your way through the city without breaking the bank. Make sure to ask for Sylvia!

 

So basically, if you leave Pittsburgh hungry, you've done something wrong. But stick with any of these top recommendations from our adventures and we promise, you will depart counting the days until you return.

www.primantibros.com

www.crystalonpenn.com

www.pamelasdiner.com

www.burghfoodtour.com

Photos by Rod Orta & Steven Lindsey

Natchitoches: Accommodations

Visiting a town like Natchitoches, Louisiana wouldn't be the same if you holed up in a cheap chain motel. Even if they do leave the light on.

Some cities are built on rock-and-roll, but small towns are built on bed-and-breakfasts. Or at least around them. Nothing captures the character of both a city and its people better than staying in a cozy B&B. And we stayed in an amazing one called the Violet Hill Bed & Breakfast, part of a group of four gay-owned-and-operated, historic-home B&Bs.

  Walking into Violet Hill felt like walking onto the set of a romantic comedy (there's always a bed and breakfast in those damn things). But seriously, it was truly like a movie set. Attention to detail at every turn, antique furnishings, modern amenities, and a few of the rooms with Jacuzzis built for two (we tried our best to cram in four, but it didn't work).

Now, if you've ever stayed at a subpar B&B (and trust us, we have), you may not ever want to go back. Some of them consist of a semi-private room where you can hear the goings-on of the owners, only to awaken exhausted to a continental breakfast of cold cereal and Sam's Club danishes. NOT at Violet Hill, or any of her sister properties.

Here, we awakened completely refreshed and dined with three lovely women from the rooms upstairs. There's one breakfast seating, so you best be on time or Charles may just knock your door down and pull you out of bed himself. But it would be worth it. Like one of Santa's elves, he gets to work early in the morning making a sumptuous feast that will hold you most of the day. Ours consisted of hazelnut bread pudding (he says it's nice to start with dessert), followed by individually prepared frittatas, cheese grits, fresh biscuits, sausage, juice and coffee. And every bite was amazing.

In fact, every detail here from the linens to the Gilchrist and Sommes bath products in the rooms to the wicker furniture on the back porch and the riverside cabanas, Violet Hill was difficult to leave. But hopefully we'll be back soon.

We're determined to fit four into that damn Jacuzzi.

Violet Hill Bed and Breakfast

917 Washington Street

Natchitoches, Louisiana 71457

866-357-0858

View their other B&B properties at www.natchitochesbandb.com

****************

If you're not able to find one of these guys' B&Bs when you visit, we also spent a night at a great little 20-room hotel right in the historic district. The Church Street Inn is clean, the rooms are spacious and the staff is extremely accommodating.

The Church Street Inn is by far the nicest non-bed-and-breakfast in town. The others don't have near the sophistication or charm of this boutique property.

Rates are reasonable and for anyone who doesn't like the idea of sharing breakfast with perfect strangers, you can hunker down here with total privacy and never see anyone but yourself in the mirror if that's what you want. (But the bathtub only fits one.)

120 Church Street
Telephone: (318) 238-8888
Toll Free: (800) 668-9298
www.churchstinn.com 

Photos by Rod Orta

Natchitoches: Shopping

Most every little town in America boasts tiny locally owned gift shops, galleries, and boutiques. And Natchitoches is no different. It just fits them all nicely in a couple blocks of charming, riverfront buildings. Whether you're looking for cooking supplies, an antique martini pitcher, or a fancy handbag, this is a fun little district for giving your credit card a workout.

Our favorite store by far, however, has to be Kaffie-Frederick General Mercantile, the oldest store in the state of Louisiana. Filled with hardware, classic toys, hard-to-find cooking equipment, and an all-around sense of history, this is the kind of store in which you can spend hours browsing.

Then you can put all your loot into a Radioflyer red wagon and drag it back to your hotel or bed and breakfast (or give rides to locals in exchange for beer money).

Kaffie-Frederick General Mercantile
758 Front Street
tel: (318) 352-2525

Full List of Historic District Shopping Here from explorenatchitoches.com.

www.explorenatchitoches.com

Photos by Rod Orta

Natchitoches: Eats

Eating in Louisiana, like shopping in Dallas, is a full-contact sport. You've got to throw your whole body into enjoying the great food available in abundance from the smallest towns to big cities like New Orleans. So it should come as little surprise that Natchitoches has its own signature cuisine.

We were only in town for two nights, so we didn't get to try too many places to eat, but two restaurants stood crawfish head and pork shoulders above the rest thanks to a couple famous signature dishes.

If you only have time for one meal in Natchitoches, for whatever reason, make sure it's before 3:00 because that's what Lasyone's Meat Pie Kitchen & Restaurant closes. And if you only have time for two meals, you may want to make them both at Lasyone's. (We actually did eat there TWICE.)

There are dozens of places around town that serve Natchitoches meat pies, but of the ones we sampled elsewhere, we can wholeheartedly declare Lasyone's the winner based on our own research. The flaky, meat-filled pie (shown above) is simply divine. The crust is buttery and melt-in-your-mouth delicious and the filling has just the right amount of spice and variety of ingredients. Our second visit was centered on trying the equally delicious crawfish pie. We suggest getting one of each and saving a meal for one of the other restaurants in town.

A close second for favorite dish is just around the corner at Merci Beaucoup. Their top-selling dish is the Cajun Potato. A large baked potato is stuffed with crawfish etoufee and one or two jumbo fried shrimp (depending on how much you want to pay). It's served with a simple garden salad so you don't feel so guilty, as well as a side of hot French bread. The photo doesn't do the dish justice, but in our defense, it is a brown mess on a plate. But oh-so-delicious.

Laissez les bon appetit rouler! 

Lasyone’s Meat Pie Kitchen & Restaurant
622 Second Street
Telephone: (318) 352-3353

Merci Beaucoup Restaurant
127 Church Street
(318) 352-6634
www.mercibeaucouprestaurant.com

Photos by Rod Orta

Natchitoches: Steel Magnolias Tour

M'Lynn, Truvy, Ouiser, Annelle, Clairee and Shelby. They're not just the names of our six cats, but also one of the most celebrated female-driven films of all time. (Second only to Twelve Angry Men).

There are few movies we love enough, or that have an appropriate level of kitsch, to drive 300 miles to see where it all took place. But Steel Magnolias fits the bill on both counts, so we headed out one hot summer day a couple weeks ago. And it was a total blast.

Led by beautiful, sassy, "Don't Worry, I Know the Sheriff—Go Ahead and Jump that Fence" Barbara Bailey of Tour Natchitoches with Barbara, it was one of the most pleasant experiences we've had on a recent vacation. She rides in the back of your car and directs you to all the major locations in the film, from Shelby's (Julia Roberts) house to Truvy's (Dolly Parton) beauty shop (plus the real neighborhood, off-the-house beauty shop that inspired the fictional version) within Natchitoches, as well as a picturesque drive a few miles south to the church where the big pink wedding scenes were filmed.

 Along the way, stop at historic plantations and other unique points of interest, like playwright Robert Harling's childhood and current homes. (This is where your fence-jumping may come in handy.) Best of all, Barbara is extremely knowledgeable and passionate about her town. Plus, the fact that she admits to watching Steel Magnolias at least once a month, she can tell you just about everything from behind the scenes. She customizes each tour specifically to your wishes, so call her today for pricing and availability.

Tour Natchitoches with Barbara

318-352-5469
318-663-5468
info@tournatchitocheswithbarbara.com

www.tournatchitocheswithbarbara.com

Cast Photo: Copyright TriStar Pictures
Additional Photography by Rod Orta

Galveston Island: Attractions

Little did we know when we ventured to Galveston that we'd come face-to-face with a giant sloth inside Moody Gardens, one of the island's top attractions. We met him inside the Rain Forest exhibit where he's allowed to room free with monkeys and birds. Just beware, the upper portion of this exhibit clocked in at 130-degrees Fareinheit and 86% humidity the day of our visit. It is the rainforest, but come on!

As for Moody Gardens as a whole, the giant complex features a water park, probably the best aquariums in Texas, 4-D movies, a hotel, restaurants, and much more. We only had a few hours, but it's easy to see how a whole weekend could be lost among the majesty and beauty of everything this park has to offer.

 

For a little bit of Galveston's history, the short film, The Storm at the Pier 21 theater is well worth the price of admission. The harrowing tale of the devastating 1900 hurricane is heartbreaking, but inspirational. These people weren't going to let a little major destruction keep them from rebuilding.

Over at Bishop's Palace (right), experience Galveston's most famous home. It survived the 1900 hurricane and eventually was sold to the Catholic church as a residence for the Bishop. Call ahead to find out when they offer the behind-the-scenes tour that takes you to parts that most groups never see. It's a step back in time and a fascinating look at wealth from another era. We're pretty sure there are ghosts here, too, just like our hotel. Why can't we ever see them?

 

The beaches along the south shore can be pretty crowded and full of screaming children—so not our scene. So we drove as far east as we could without dropping into the ocean. Although according to the Map on our iPhone (left), we had dropped into the ocean. East Beach is a great spot for wonderful views of the open sea to the south and the bustling ship traffic to the east. It costs about eight bucks to park (or park for free if you want to walk a short distance), but the beach is far less crowded. There weren't any rentals when we visited, so make sure to bring your own chairs and umbrella. Port-a-potties on site, too, so you don't have to poop in the water.

Best of all, there are lifeguards out here, so you don't have to worry about venturing out for a little swim.

There's so much more to do in Galveston, but if you visit a beach town and don't actually hang out on the beach, well, that's just wrong.

Photos by Rod Orta

Galveston Island: Eats

  Some people take photos of their kids or loved ones to fondly remember a vacation. Us? We take pics of our food. Sad, but true. We can tell you about any meal we had on any vacation for the past ten years. It's how we roll.

So, of course, we have a few favorite places in Galveston to share with you. One was a recommendation from a patron at Third Coast, and boy are we glad we listened. Just a block and a half from our hotel, Tremont House, is an unassuming little place called El Jardin And they have some killer breakfast tacos. But skip all the choices and order The #3 Surprise (pictured). For just $3.50, get a burrito stuffed with bacon, eggs, cheese, potatoes, beans and carne guisada. One is enough, but you'll want two or three. This place was half underwater after Hurricane Ike, but we're glad they persevered.

At no fewer than six places in Galveston we saw "Shrimp Kiss"  on the menu. We finally broke down during our happy hour at Rum Shack (half price, no less) and Holy Schamoly. All we can say is try these wherever you find them. Shrimp, wrapped in bacon, stuffed with jalapeños and cheese then deep-fried and served with ranch dressing. Could there be a more perfect combination? Heart-healthy, they're not, but they were so delicious we even considered eating the tails. But that was probalby the frozen Mojitos talking.

 

If you want to experience one of Galveston's best fine-dining spots without the expense of dinnertime prices (or the requirement to wear pants), you simply must add Rudy and Paco to your list. Innovative dishes with a South and Central American twist feature fresh seafood right out of the Gulf, as well as steaks and other fantastic dishes. Empanadas were fantastic, crab cakes among the best we've eaten, desserts were stellar, but the waiter-recommended Shrimp in Garlic Sauce (pictured) stole the show. In fact, we like Rudy and Paco so much, we might just go at dinner next time, even though it means covering up our sexy, sexy legs.

Galveston Island institution Gaido's Famous Seafood Restaurant is also celebrating its 100-year anniversary in 2011. That's more crabs than backstage at a Chippendale's show. But it's no wonder this place has been around for a century. It has some amazing seafood and impeccable service. If you leave here hungry, there's something wrong with you in the head. Everything is fresh and plentiful, but we couldn't resist the Crab Cheesecake appetizer and the Premium Jumbo Gulf Shrimp (Fried, of course) for our main entrée. We threw in a salad just to have something green.

Food in Galveston is worth the drive (or flight) alone, especially for seafood lovers. But there's a little something for everyone, we promise.

 

All Photos by Rod Orta, except Gaido's exterior shot.